Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine 99% Powder

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A high-purity lipoamino-acid brightening active for uneven tone, dark-spot and radiance formulas. Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is especially valuable when formulators want a tone-evening ingredient with direct human-use evidence and a mechanism distinct from conventional tyrosinase inhibitors.

99% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine powder for professional cosmetic formulation.
Human studies support improvement in the appearance of hyperpigmented areas at 1–2% active. [R5–R7]
Practical development range: 0.5–2.0%, with 1.0% as a conservative first prototype. [R4–R7,R9–R10]
Paid evaluation quantities and bulk inquiry support trial-to-scale development.

Product Specifications / Key Facts

Property	Product Information
Product Name	Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
INCI	UNDECYLENOYL PHENYLALANINE
Commercial Form	Powder
Purity / Assay	99%
CAS Number	175357-18-3 [R1–R2]
Molecular Formula	C20H29NO3 [R1–R2]
Molecular Weight	Approximately 331.4 g/mol [R2]
UNII	271P08C6OD [R1]
Ingredient Type	Lipoamino-acid brightening / tone-care active

Key Benefits

Supports more even-looking skin tone — Human studies using 2% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine preparations reported visible improvement in hyperpigmented areas versus vehicle. [R5–R6]

Helps reduce the appearance of dark spots — Clinical work in facial hyperpigmentation and solar-lentigine models provides direct topical evidence rather than mechanism-only support. [R5–R7]

Pairs well with niacinamide — A double-blind split-face study found 1% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine plus 5% niacinamide more effective than niacinamide alone in reducing the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after 8 weeks. [R7]

Offers a differentiated brightening mechanism — The ingredient is associated with modulation of the α-MSH pigmentation pathway rather than functioning only as a conventional direct tyrosinase inhibitor. [R5,R9]

Works in low-percentage active systems — A practical 0.5–2.0% development window makes it easy to position alongside other tone-care actives without consuming a large portion of the formula.

Why Formulators Choose It

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is useful when a brightening formula needs both clinical relevance and a mechanism that complements niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives and other tone-care actives. The 99% powder gives R&D teams direct control over active loading, but its incorporation is pH- and solvent-dependent, so the solubilization route should be planned before the final pH is locked.

Best-Fit Product Applications

Dark-spot and tone-evening serums
Brightening emulsions and creams
Radiance-focused daily moisturizers
Multi-active pigmentation-care formulas
Post-sun tone-care cosmetics
Premium niacinamide + brightening active systems

How to Formulate With It

Parameter	Practical Formulation Guidance
Initial Development Window	Use 0.5–2.0% as a practical development range for a 99% generic powder. Historical cosmetic-use data and clinical studies include 0.5–2% use, with 1–2% common in active brightening formulations. [R4–R7,R10]
Recommended Starting Point	Start at 1.0% active for the first bench prototype. This level has direct clinical combination evidence with 5% niacinamide and leaves room for escalation toward 2% after compatibility and tolerance review. [R7]
Clear Aqueous Route	For clear water-based systems, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine becomes water soluble around neutral pH; pre-neutralize / solubilize near pH 7 and then build the final formula around the validated solubility window. [R9]
Co-Solvent Route	For lower-pH serums, pre-solubilize the active in a compatible cosmetic co-solvent such as propanediol or an appropriate alcohol/polyol system before adding to the main batch. Supplier guidance should control exact solvent ratio. [R10]
Emulsion / Oil-Phase Route	For emulsions, another practical route is heated oil-phase incorporation. Comparable supplier guidance uses approximately 60°C or higher for introduction, with the final temperature kept below unnecessary prolonged high heat. [R9–R10]
pH	Solubility and delivery are easiest outside the difficult mid-acidic zone. For a first serum, either work near pH 6.8–7.0 for a clear aqueous route, or use a validated co-solvent route if the finished formula must remain around pH 5–6. [R9–R10]
Compatibility	Especially suitable with niacinamide; can also be developed with N-Acetyl Glucosamine, stable vitamin C derivatives and other tone-care actives. Validate total irritation load and pH compatibility.
First Stability Checks	Monitor clarity / crystallization, color, odor, pH and active precipitation through room-temperature and accelerated stability before scale-up.

First Prototype Example

For a 100 g tone-evening serum, start with 1.0 g active Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine. If the final serum can run close to neutral pH, first dissolve the active in a small portion of the water phase after controlled neutralization to around pH 7, then combine with the main batch and verify that the finished formula stays clear. If the target formula must remain near pH 5.5–6.0, use a validated propanediol / compatible co-solvent stock instead of forcing direct water dissolution. A practical first combination is 1% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine + 5% niacinamide, matching a published clinical combination concentration. [R7]

What to Pair It With

Recommended Ingredient	Why It Pairs Well	Product Concept	Compatibility Note
Niacinamide	Direct human combination evidence at 5% niacinamide + 1% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine.	Evidence-led tone-evening serum	Manage final pH and solubility route; do not assume a clear water system at low pH. [R7]
N-Acetyl Glucosamine	Adds a complementary water-phase tone-care and skin-conditioning active.	Multi-pathway brightening serum	Validate preservation, pH and total solids.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid	Adds antioxidant / brightening support with better aqueous handling than ascorbic acid.	Radiance serum	Choose pH and solvent system that keeps both actives stable.
Alpha-Arbutin	Adds a familiar melanin-pathway brightening active.	Dark-spot serum	Keep total active load and regulatory limits appropriate for the target market.
Tranexamic Acid	Adds a complementary tone-care story in cosmetic formulations.	Advanced discoloration-care serum	Claims and permissible use may vary by market; verify local cosmetic status.
Ectoin	Adds hydration and environmental-stress support.	Brightening + resilience serum	Generally easy to pair; validate complete-formula stability.

What the Research Shows

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine has unusually direct human evidence for a cosmetic brightening raw material. A 12-week double-blind study in 40 women with melasma evaluated a 2% preparation versus vehicle and reported significant improvement on the active side. [R5] A separate randomized double-blind study in solar lentigines used 2% active for 12 weeks and found significantly greater improvement than vehicle. [R6] In two split-face facial-hyperpigmentation studies, 1% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine combined with 5% niacinamide outperformed 5% niacinamide alone after 8 weeks. [R7] These studies support tone-evening and dark-spot cosmetic positioning, but the raw material should not be marketed as a treatment for melasma or other medical pigmentation disorders.

Research & References

[R1] U.S. FDA GSRS — UNDECYLENOYL PHENYLALANINE; CAS 175357-18-3; formula C20H29NO3; UNII 271P08C6OD.

[R2] PubChem — Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine / Sepiwhite; CAS 175357-18-3; MW 331.4.

[R3] Cosmetic Ingredient Review — amino acid alkyl amides quick reference; safe in present cosmetic practices when formulated to be non-irritating.

[R4] CIR concentration-of-use data for amino acid alkyl amides.

[R5] A double-blind vehicle-controlled study of a preparation containing undecylenoyl phenylalanine 2% in the treatment of melasma in females.

[R6] A randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled study of a preparation containing undecylenoyl phenylalanine 2% in the treatment of solar lentigines.

[R7] Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine and its combination with niacinamide.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine?

It is a lipoamino acid made from L-phenylalanine and an undecylenoyl lipid chain, used in cosmetic formulas for tone-evening and dark-spot appearance.

What use level should I start with?

Start around 1.0% active. A practical development window for a 99% generic powder is about 0.5–2.0%, supported by historical cosmetic use and human studies. [R4–R7]

Is Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine water soluble?

Not universally at every pH. It becomes much more water soluble around pH 7; at lower pH, a co-solvent or emulsion/oil-phase route is often easier. [R9–R10]

Can it be combined with niacinamide?

Yes. A published split-face study used 1% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine with 5% niacinamide and found greater improvement in facial hyperpigmentation than niacinamide alone. [R7]

What pH is best?

For clear aqueous systems, near-neutral pH around 6.8–7.0 is the easiest starting point. If your final formula must remain around pH 5–6, use a validated co-solvent or emulsion route instead of relying on direct water dissolution.

Is it clinically proven for dark spots?

Human studies support improvement in hyperpigmented areas at studied 1–2% concentrations, including combination use with niacinamide. Those findings support cosmetic tone-evening claims.